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J-Shrad
Administrator

Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 265
Location: Michigan
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Posted:
Sun Jan 16, 2005 11:27 pm |
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Does any one have ideas on how to make a cheap rack? I am planning on breeding kenyan sand boas in the near future, but I don't want to pay $200-$300 for a rack when I can make one at home for cheaper. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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TommyD.
Neonate
Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 75
Location: Kentucky
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Posted:
Sat Feb 05, 2005 8:32 pm |
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Hey Josh I build my own racks sorry I never checked this one. How big of a rack are you wanting to build I have some plans on the ones I build. If you want me to post some dimentions and instructions. I could also post them if you tell me how to get them on the board. I have snake, mice, and rat racks with pics and material list. |
Last edited by TommyD. on Sat Feb 05, 2005 8:35 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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J-Shrad
Administrator

Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 265
Location: Michigan
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Posted:
Sat Feb 05, 2005 8:34 pm |
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That would be great Tommy. Thanks a lot. |
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TommyD.
Neonate
Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 75
Location: Kentucky
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Posted:
Sat Feb 05, 2005 9:21 pm |
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Adult Colubrid or medium sized snake rack system.
This rack system in designed to accommodote medium to large colubrid snakes. The basic dimensions of this rack are 32"x24"x70". It holds 22 storage boxes, two across by eleven high. I use the 28 quart "Jumbo storage box" manufactured by Sterlite, part #1656. These have been discounted and will probably be difficult to find. Other brands may be substituted if desired. The approximate size to look for is 221/4"x 16"x 6".
Material List
3 sheets of 4'x8' plywood, particle board, or melamine (your choice) - I perfer to use 5/8" particle board for my racks.
4 heavy duty casters or wheels (not shown in drawing)- The completed rack will be the size of a refrigerator and extremely heavy, so quality casters or wheels should be purchased.
4 (or more) "T" or "L" shaped support braces- This is to reinforce the rack and provide additional structural integrity. I use a pair of "L" shaped corner braces 2"x 3/8" on the top corners, and a couple of "T" shaped braces throughout the rack. 1 sheet 1/4" pegboard- For the back of the rack. Plywood or melamine can also be used, but is more expensive and adds additional weight. Pegboard also allows fresh air to circulate through the rack.
22 storage boxes- I use 28 quart Sterlite, dimensions 22 1/4"x 16"x6" (LxWxH) I buy my boxes at the Dollar General Stores in my area for $5 each. You will need about 4-6 boxes during construction of the rack, the rest may be purchased later if desired.
Screws- I use 1 3/4" deck screws in my rack.
Scrap pieces of 2'x4' lumber- I use these on the bottom of the rack to provide something to mount the casters or wheels to.
Building the rack
Begin construction of the rack by cutting two of the 4'x 8' sheets into 12 24" x 32". These pieces will serve as the top and bottom of the rack, and 10 shelves.
Cut the remaining 4'x8' sheet in half. These two pieces are the sides of the rack. The length of these two pieces will be trimmed after the top, all shelves, and bottom pieces are attached.
Putting the rack together
The rack will be put together upside down, starting with the top shelf. Attach the top shelf piece (24"x32") to each of the side pieces. I have found that it is better to predrill holes for your screws when working with particleboard/melamine or plywood. This reduces the chances that the screw will split open the wood. Now is the time to add the "L" shaped reinforcing brackets to the top corners.
Note that the cage is upside down. The next step is to take two of the storage boxes, and place them upside down on the top shelf. Take a shelf piece (24"x32") and place on the top of the storage boxes. Fasten the shelf to the sides, and then slide the boxes in and out to test the fit. Once you are happy with the fit of the boxes in the first level, proceed to the next, continuing this step until all shelves are installed and all boxes properly. I recommend using several "L" shaped brackets on the back side of the rack, at least every three to four shelves. This will help to strenghten the rack.
After all the shelves are installed, trim the side pieces flush with the bottom shelf. I use scrap pieces of 2'x4' lumber to provide a mount for the wheels.
Now you can CAREFULLY ( you will need help) position the rack on the wheels. Please be extremely careful. After this is done measure the height and width of the rack. Mine are usually approximately 32"x68". Cut the piece of pegboard to your measurments. If you are using heat tape to heat the rack, now is the time to install it. I use two pieces of 11"wide Flex-Watt, each a length of 6' long. Aluminum foil tape is used to attach the heat tape to the pegboard. Once the stripes are attached and wired, the last step is to fasten the pegboard to the back side of the rack. Be very careful not to put a screw through the heat tape. Then your done. I have pics of all of this but I couldn't get this loaded on the board sorry. |
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J-Shrad
Administrator

Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 265
Location: Michigan
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Posted:
Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:04 pm |
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Thanks a bunch Tommy! Those plans were really helpful. |
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TommyD.
Neonate
Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 75
Location: Kentucky
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Posted:
Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:43 pm |
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Josh if you want me to send you the plans on the rack and the other stuff I mentioned and you could post it if you want. I just don't think I can hold out on typing all of the plans plus it's kind of vague with out the diagrams and pic's to go with it. |
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J-Shrad
Administrator

Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 265
Location: Michigan
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Posted:
Sat Feb 05, 2005 10:50 pm |
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If it wouldn't be too much trouble. |
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TommyD.
Neonate
Joined: 30 Jan 2005
Posts: 75
Location: Kentucky
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Posted:
Sun Feb 06, 2005 12:28 am |
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I'll try to get them to you this week I have a buisy week but I'll get them to you. |
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J-Shrad
Administrator

Joined: 07 Jan 2005
Posts: 265
Location: Michigan
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Posted:
Sun Feb 06, 2005 9:30 am |
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Ok, thanks. |
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